We bought our boards in the very beginning of April, so I would say I've been surfing for just under 2 months. So here is my beginner's guide to learning how to surf according to what I've personally experienced thus far. I.e., these are the things I would've told myself in the beginning.
Lesson #1 - Paddling out: It sucks. And it's going to suck for the first few times until you build up your endurance, and especially strength in your upper body (i.e., back and shoulders). Keep an eye out on the incoming waves. If you get caught in a set, either paddle over the wave, or if it's breaking, I like to do what's called a "turtle roll" ... roll off your board while turning it upside down, get on your back, pull the board over you, hold the board firmly in front of you at arms lengh, and let the wave pass between you and the board. Obviously if you're a short boarder you would duck dive, but I won't get into that. Don't get discouraged if you struggle. Just keep doing it and you'll be amazed at how quickly you improve. Keep your fingers together in the shape of a scoop and dig deep with each stroke. You won't feel like you're moving, but trust me, you are!
Lesson #2- Wave selection: It requires patience. And a lot of it! You either sit or lay down on your board and keep an eye out on the horizon. You'll see the set rolling in, but don't just go paddling like crazy at the first wave that comes your way. You'll end up burning all your energy and the wave will probably pass you by. Chances are the 2nd or 3rd wave will be bigger and better. Keep an eye out for other surfers that are going for the wave, particularly if they're behind you, or further "outside." Once you position yourself for an incoming wave, it's back to (you guessed it) paddling!
Lesson #3- Catching the wave: again, don't go flailing about paddling like crazy for any wave in any direction. Use deep, purposeful strokes in the direction you want to go, and increase your speed as the wave comes closer. Keep looking behind you to gauge where the wave is and where other surfers are around you. When the wave is right behind you, THEN paddle as fast and as hard as you can. If someone is already dropping in, either to the left or right, you have to give way to that person. So always be aware of your surroundings or you could end up wiping out trying to avoid other surfers, or worse, cause a collision. Catching the wave is probably the hardest part about surfing. Again, it takes patience and practice. Watch the other experienced surfers, and try to duplicate what they do.
Lesson #4- Standing up: this part solely depends on catching the wave in the first place. Once you feel momentum of the wave pushing you forward, pop up immediately and stick your stance as quickly as you can, with your stronger leg in the back. For me, that would be my right leg. Keep your knees slightly bent to absorb any bumps in the wave. Then, look around to your left and right to see where you want to go, and whether there are any other surfers riding the same wave with you. Then, enjoy the ride!
Lesson #5- Surf etiquette: aside from actually learning to surf, it is also very important to learn surf etiquette. Probably the most important thing to realize is: you are a newbie. You have to acknowledge your experience level, and have respect for those that are more advanced who probably don't want to be dealing with brand new surfers who haven't a clue what they're doing or how to steer, etc. Do not be a wave hog. If someone else is clearly better positioned to take a certain wave, let them. If someone is dropping in behind you, give way. Do not drop in on a wave in front of someone and cut them off. BE OBSERVANT. Watch how the more experienced surfers do it. Watch how they paddle, watch how they angle the board in the direction they want to go, watch how they stand up. And above all else, HAVE FUN!!! Most surfers are all about the "stoke" and are just happy that other people are enjoying the sport as much as they are. And if you do happen to mess up, whether its accidentally cutting someone off because you didn't see them, or bumping into them because you didn't stop your board in time, or not being able to get out of the way in time (I've done all of these) I find if you're apologetic, respectful, and show a genuine concern about others' well being, you get a "no worries" more often than not. Then again, I'm a girl, so I probably have it easier than dudes. haha!
Lesson #6- Post-ride/wipeout recovery: This could possibly present the toughest moments you'll experience in surfing. Chances are, you've just caught a wave that was in the middle of a set, which means, after you either a) exit the wave gracefully or (the more likely scenario), b) wipe out and tumble aroud in the underwater washing machine for a few agonizing seconds... you're going to have a few more waves coming your way that will likely break exactly where you are located. You will have to endure the pounding of the set while you're also trying to avoid the incoming surfers on those same waves. You might lose control of your board, you might get submerged for longer than ideally comfortable, you might swallow a big gulp of salt water or get water up your nose, etc. etc. etc. The key here is to NOT PANIC!!! Keep an eye on the waves, prepare for them to crash on top of you, try your best to keep control of your board, and prepare yourself to hold your breath. Remember that your leash is your life-line. If you lose your board, pull yourself to your board hand over hand until it's within reach. Then just wait it out as best you can until the set is over, then you can paddle back out to do it all over again!
Well, so far, those are the best lessons that I've learned thus far in my endeavor to learn how to surf. I have improved significantly since the first time I went out. And that's only a result of patience, practice, and consisitency. Surfing is not an easy sport to learn, but the reward is definitely worth the work. Being able to successfully catch and ride a decent wave is one of the best feelings I have ever had in my entire life. And once you do it, you're hooked. I certainly am!!!
Monday, May 30, 2011
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
How I got to Hawaii
I hear it so often: "You're so lucky to live and work in Hawaii!" Well, guess what? I didn't get here by wishing for it or praying for it. Well, maybe just a little. But really, I got here by working hard. I mean, by working my @$$ off...
I remember it like it was yesterday. It was one random week night at home when my Mom received a manila envelope in the mail from the Broward County School System. She almost threw it away, as much of the crap we got from the Broward County School System was just that: crap. But this letter was different. It was an invitation to an open house for a brand new school opening up at the Broward Community College (aka BCC) campus in Davie, Florida. It was called The College Academy @ BCC. When my Mom first presented me with the letter, I flat-out refused to go. There was no way in hell I was switching schools half way through high school. Even though I wasn't very fond of my then alma mater (J.P. Taravella), I was doing well, and I had a high school sweetheart I didn't want to leave behind.
"Just give it a chance" my Mom urged.
"Fine, I'll go to the open house, but that's it." I had already made my decision that I wasn't going to the new school. Or so I thought...
A week or so later, I went to the open house with much skepticism, yet heard first-hand from the students there about how amazing College Academy was. It was a hybrid of high school and college: a school where you would be able to finish your junior and senior years of high school while completing your Associate of Arts (2 year college degree) concurrently. You were literally expected to take college courses on a college campus with college professors and other college students, while also attending your high school classes (equivalent of AP level), all at the ripe old age of 16! There were no school bells to remind you to get to class on time. There were no assigned class "periods" or lunches. If you walked into a class late, you weren't given detention, you were just expected to sit down quickly and quietly and catch up with the lesson. Even if you skipped a class, there were no consequences so long as you kept up with the work. You never needed a bathroom pass or permission to leave early, nor did you need a sick note if you were feeling ill. Essentailly, we were college students at 16 and were expected to behave as such: independently and responsibly. The college students and professors at BCC were never told who the CA (College Academy) kids were. We just blended in. And did I mention the best part? IT WAS ALL FREE! Yes, that's right. As a reward for being so academically successful, we were granted 2 years of college tuition and books for FREE by the state of Florida. The only caveats (if you really thought they were caveats) were that you would miss out on the traditional high school activities such as sports, clubs, prom, etc. If you wanted to participate in any of that stuff, you did it at the college level at BCC. But to be honest, I couldn't care less about any of that crap when I was in high school anyway. All I was concerned about was getting into a good University when all was said and done. And CA represented the bridge to where I wanted to go. CA represented freedom and independence from the typical, stuffy high school atmosphere I had grown to dislike.
After the open house finished, I was surprised by my utter determination to get into the program. I had to send my transcripts, take some college placement tests, write an essay, and get some recommendations form current teachers, etc. College Academy didn't just accept anyone. They had to be confident in the students' academic and social abilities to adapt to college life at an earlier age. But I wanted that freedom. And I was going to get it!
College Academy ended up being one of the best things that has ever happened to me. And though I spent 2 straight years (yes I went to school full time over the summer too) working my @$$ off to graduate with a high enough GPA to get into the school of my choice, it is the foundation of how I got to where I am today. It got me into the Univeristy of Miami with a scholarship; which led me to completing a Bachelor's degree in Marine Affairs; which led me to a Master's degree at RSMAS; which led me to my internship with a certain professor who would take me to a certain workshop; which allowed me to meet and network with a woman from NOAA, who would just happen to know my current boss, and recommend me for my current job. Not to mention my little side jaunt to Australia, via UM's amazing study abroad program, where I met my husband.
So there you have it. I've been working for this moment in my life since before I was 16, when I got that unassuming manila envelope in the mail that would forever change my life. It's been almost 10 years of pure hard work, dedication, and passion. So while I consider myself very "lucky" that my current job happens to be located in what I consider to be one of the most beautiful places this country has to offer... I'm also here because I straight up earned it... and possibly due to a little pushing by a certain parental figure ;-)
I remember it like it was yesterday. It was one random week night at home when my Mom received a manila envelope in the mail from the Broward County School System. She almost threw it away, as much of the crap we got from the Broward County School System was just that: crap. But this letter was different. It was an invitation to an open house for a brand new school opening up at the Broward Community College (aka BCC) campus in Davie, Florida. It was called The College Academy @ BCC. When my Mom first presented me with the letter, I flat-out refused to go. There was no way in hell I was switching schools half way through high school. Even though I wasn't very fond of my then alma mater (J.P. Taravella), I was doing well, and I had a high school sweetheart I didn't want to leave behind.
"Just give it a chance" my Mom urged.
"Fine, I'll go to the open house, but that's it." I had already made my decision that I wasn't going to the new school. Or so I thought...
A week or so later, I went to the open house with much skepticism, yet heard first-hand from the students there about how amazing College Academy was. It was a hybrid of high school and college: a school where you would be able to finish your junior and senior years of high school while completing your Associate of Arts (2 year college degree) concurrently. You were literally expected to take college courses on a college campus with college professors and other college students, while also attending your high school classes (equivalent of AP level), all at the ripe old age of 16! There were no school bells to remind you to get to class on time. There were no assigned class "periods" or lunches. If you walked into a class late, you weren't given detention, you were just expected to sit down quickly and quietly and catch up with the lesson. Even if you skipped a class, there were no consequences so long as you kept up with the work. You never needed a bathroom pass or permission to leave early, nor did you need a sick note if you were feeling ill. Essentailly, we were college students at 16 and were expected to behave as such: independently and responsibly. The college students and professors at BCC were never told who the CA (College Academy) kids were. We just blended in. And did I mention the best part? IT WAS ALL FREE! Yes, that's right. As a reward for being so academically successful, we were granted 2 years of college tuition and books for FREE by the state of Florida. The only caveats (if you really thought they were caveats) were that you would miss out on the traditional high school activities such as sports, clubs, prom, etc. If you wanted to participate in any of that stuff, you did it at the college level at BCC. But to be honest, I couldn't care less about any of that crap when I was in high school anyway. All I was concerned about was getting into a good University when all was said and done. And CA represented the bridge to where I wanted to go. CA represented freedom and independence from the typical, stuffy high school atmosphere I had grown to dislike.
After the open house finished, I was surprised by my utter determination to get into the program. I had to send my transcripts, take some college placement tests, write an essay, and get some recommendations form current teachers, etc. College Academy didn't just accept anyone. They had to be confident in the students' academic and social abilities to adapt to college life at an earlier age. But I wanted that freedom. And I was going to get it!
College Academy ended up being one of the best things that has ever happened to me. And though I spent 2 straight years (yes I went to school full time over the summer too) working my @$$ off to graduate with a high enough GPA to get into the school of my choice, it is the foundation of how I got to where I am today. It got me into the Univeristy of Miami with a scholarship; which led me to completing a Bachelor's degree in Marine Affairs; which led me to a Master's degree at RSMAS; which led me to my internship with a certain professor who would take me to a certain workshop; which allowed me to meet and network with a woman from NOAA, who would just happen to know my current boss, and recommend me for my current job. Not to mention my little side jaunt to Australia, via UM's amazing study abroad program, where I met my husband.
So there you have it. I've been working for this moment in my life since before I was 16, when I got that unassuming manila envelope in the mail that would forever change my life. It's been almost 10 years of pure hard work, dedication, and passion. So while I consider myself very "lucky" that my current job happens to be located in what I consider to be one of the most beautiful places this country has to offer... I'm also here because I straight up earned it... and possibly due to a little pushing by a certain parental figure ;-)
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Baby fever (and why I don't have it)
This is sort of a random post, as it doesn't really have much to do with living in Hawaii, but it's something I wanted to get off my chest. Ever since Daland and I got married, we have been bombarded with the typical question every married couple gets at some point or another:
"So, when are ya havin' kids?"
Maybe back in the 50's the primary purpose of marriage was to procreate; but, we live in a modern age now where there are more reasons to get married and to be married than to pop out a few babies! I know so many people who have already had kids or are currently pregnant that are even younger than me! Granted, I got married when I was 22, which in and of itself is very young. But honestly, marriage is a different type of commitment than having kids in my opinion. Your whole life changes when you have children. And while I've been told that the best job a woman could have is to be a mother, I just don't want that job yet. The amount of things I have done since getting married that I wouldn't have been able to do if I was saddled with a couple of kids is amazing! I traveled to Panama, I traveled to Bimini, I went to grad school, got my Master's degree, traveled back to Australia, picked up and moved to Hawaii, and the list goes on. Fact of the matter is, there are still SO many things I want to do, places I want to travel, things I want to accomplish, etc. before I commit my entire life to revolve around another human being. I want to enjoy being married to my husband before our lives completely get turned upside down by having a child. I want to know without a doubt that our foundation has been tested and proven solid, time and time again, before throwing a child into the mix. I want to be responsible about bringing a child into the world, especially this one. And to be honest, I'm not even sure it can be responsible anymore, with a booming global population, increasing poverty, and scarce finite resources.
Don't get me wrong- I will probably want a baby eventually, and I'm not getting down on anyone who chose or are currently choosing to become young parents. But I want to live MY life first before I take on the "best job in the world."I want to have both, and I still can because I'm young and have plenty of time. I don't want to rush into motherhood because I know I'm not ready. So for those of you who have taken on the challenge, more power to you. I fully respect that. I simply don't have a problem admitting that I just don't want the job right now. And who knows when I will. There's nothing wrong with that. I fully enjoy my life with just my husband and our dog. We can do what we want, whenever we want, no questions asked. And right now, I'm not ready to give that luxury up!
So before you ask someone when they're having kids, be mindful. First of all, it's really none of your business. And second, whatever the answer is, everyone is different so be respectful. And as for me, I can say with confidence that the topic of children will pretty much be off the table for the remainder of my 20's. That's how my parents did it, and I'll be proud to follow in their footsteps.
Whew! That felt good!
Chelsey
"So, when are ya havin' kids?"
Maybe back in the 50's the primary purpose of marriage was to procreate; but, we live in a modern age now where there are more reasons to get married and to be married than to pop out a few babies! I know so many people who have already had kids or are currently pregnant that are even younger than me! Granted, I got married when I was 22, which in and of itself is very young. But honestly, marriage is a different type of commitment than having kids in my opinion. Your whole life changes when you have children. And while I've been told that the best job a woman could have is to be a mother, I just don't want that job yet. The amount of things I have done since getting married that I wouldn't have been able to do if I was saddled with a couple of kids is amazing! I traveled to Panama, I traveled to Bimini, I went to grad school, got my Master's degree, traveled back to Australia, picked up and moved to Hawaii, and the list goes on. Fact of the matter is, there are still SO many things I want to do, places I want to travel, things I want to accomplish, etc. before I commit my entire life to revolve around another human being. I want to enjoy being married to my husband before our lives completely get turned upside down by having a child. I want to know without a doubt that our foundation has been tested and proven solid, time and time again, before throwing a child into the mix. I want to be responsible about bringing a child into the world, especially this one. And to be honest, I'm not even sure it can be responsible anymore, with a booming global population, increasing poverty, and scarce finite resources.
Don't get me wrong- I will probably want a baby eventually, and I'm not getting down on anyone who chose or are currently choosing to become young parents. But I want to live MY life first before I take on the "best job in the world."I want to have both, and I still can because I'm young and have plenty of time. I don't want to rush into motherhood because I know I'm not ready. So for those of you who have taken on the challenge, more power to you. I fully respect that. I simply don't have a problem admitting that I just don't want the job right now. And who knows when I will. There's nothing wrong with that. I fully enjoy my life with just my husband and our dog. We can do what we want, whenever we want, no questions asked. And right now, I'm not ready to give that luxury up!
So before you ask someone when they're having kids, be mindful. First of all, it's really none of your business. And second, whatever the answer is, everyone is different so be respectful. And as for me, I can say with confidence that the topic of children will pretty much be off the table for the remainder of my 20's. That's how my parents did it, and I'll be proud to follow in their footsteps.
Whew! That felt good!
Chelsey
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