We bought our boards in the very beginning of April, so I would say I've been surfing for just under 2 months. So here is my beginner's guide to learning how to surf according to what I've personally experienced thus far. I.e., these are the things I would've told myself in the beginning.
Lesson #1 - Paddling out: It sucks. And it's going to suck for the first few times until you build up your endurance, and especially strength in your upper body (i.e., back and shoulders). Keep an eye out on the incoming waves. If you get caught in a set, either paddle over the wave, or if it's breaking, I like to do what's called a "turtle roll" ... roll off your board while turning it upside down, get on your back, pull the board over you, hold the board firmly in front of you at arms lengh, and let the wave pass between you and the board. Obviously if you're a short boarder you would duck dive, but I won't get into that. Don't get discouraged if you struggle. Just keep doing it and you'll be amazed at how quickly you improve. Keep your fingers together in the shape of a scoop and dig deep with each stroke. You won't feel like you're moving, but trust me, you are!
Lesson #2- Wave selection: It requires patience. And a lot of it! You either sit or lay down on your board and keep an eye out on the horizon. You'll see the set rolling in, but don't just go paddling like crazy at the first wave that comes your way. You'll end up burning all your energy and the wave will probably pass you by. Chances are the 2nd or 3rd wave will be bigger and better. Keep an eye out for other surfers that are going for the wave, particularly if they're behind you, or further "outside." Once you position yourself for an incoming wave, it's back to (you guessed it) paddling!
Lesson #3- Catching the wave: again, don't go flailing about paddling like crazy for any wave in any direction. Use deep, purposeful strokes in the direction you want to go, and increase your speed as the wave comes closer. Keep looking behind you to gauge where the wave is and where other surfers are around you. When the wave is right behind you, THEN paddle as fast and as hard as you can. If someone is already dropping in, either to the left or right, you have to give way to that person. So always be aware of your surroundings or you could end up wiping out trying to avoid other surfers, or worse, cause a collision. Catching the wave is probably the hardest part about surfing. Again, it takes patience and practice. Watch the other experienced surfers, and try to duplicate what they do.
Lesson #4- Standing up: this part solely depends on catching the wave in the first place. Once you feel momentum of the wave pushing you forward, pop up immediately and stick your stance as quickly as you can, with your stronger leg in the back. For me, that would be my right leg. Keep your knees slightly bent to absorb any bumps in the wave. Then, look around to your left and right to see where you want to go, and whether there are any other surfers riding the same wave with you. Then, enjoy the ride!
Lesson #5- Surf etiquette: aside from actually learning to surf, it is also very important to learn surf etiquette. Probably the most important thing to realize is: you are a newbie. You have to acknowledge your experience level, and have respect for those that are more advanced who probably don't want to be dealing with brand new surfers who haven't a clue what they're doing or how to steer, etc. Do not be a wave hog. If someone else is clearly better positioned to take a certain wave, let them. If someone is dropping in behind you, give way. Do not drop in on a wave in front of someone and cut them off. BE OBSERVANT. Watch how the more experienced surfers do it. Watch how they paddle, watch how they angle the board in the direction they want to go, watch how they stand up. And above all else, HAVE FUN!!! Most surfers are all about the "stoke" and are just happy that other people are enjoying the sport as much as they are. And if you do happen to mess up, whether its accidentally cutting someone off because you didn't see them, or bumping into them because you didn't stop your board in time, or not being able to get out of the way in time (I've done all of these) I find if you're apologetic, respectful, and show a genuine concern about others' well being, you get a "no worries" more often than not. Then again, I'm a girl, so I probably have it easier than dudes. haha!
Lesson #6- Post-ride/wipeout recovery: This could possibly present the toughest moments you'll experience in surfing. Chances are, you've just caught a wave that was in the middle of a set, which means, after you either a) exit the wave gracefully or (the more likely scenario), b) wipe out and tumble aroud in the underwater washing machine for a few agonizing seconds... you're going to have a few more waves coming your way that will likely break exactly where you are located. You will have to endure the pounding of the set while you're also trying to avoid the incoming surfers on those same waves. You might lose control of your board, you might get submerged for longer than ideally comfortable, you might swallow a big gulp of salt water or get water up your nose, etc. etc. etc. The key here is to NOT PANIC!!! Keep an eye on the waves, prepare for them to crash on top of you, try your best to keep control of your board, and prepare yourself to hold your breath. Remember that your leash is your life-line. If you lose your board, pull yourself to your board hand over hand until it's within reach. Then just wait it out as best you can until the set is over, then you can paddle back out to do it all over again!
Well, so far, those are the best lessons that I've learned thus far in my endeavor to learn how to surf. I have improved significantly since the first time I went out. And that's only a result of patience, practice, and consisitency. Surfing is not an easy sport to learn, but the reward is definitely worth the work. Being able to successfully catch and ride a decent wave is one of the best feelings I have ever had in my entire life. And once you do it, you're hooked. I certainly am!!!
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